Jo's terroir tour-de-force comes from this 4 hectare, particularly stony vineyard containing silex (flint), river pebbles, quartz and granite. It's a well-sheltered slope surrounded by walls and woods - Muscadet is generally flat - where the Melon grape is cosseted by direct southern exposure. This climat ...
Jo's terroir tour-de-force comes from this 4 hectare, particularly stony vineyard containing silex (flint), river pebbles, quartz and granite. It's a well-sheltered slope surrounded by walls and woods - Muscadet is generally flat - where the Melon grape is cosseted by direct southern exposure. This climat makes this the ideal site for producing one of the region's benchmarks. The 40 year old vines are pruned very short to restrict yields and the wine is bottled after 14 months on its lees with regular stirring. As with all Landron wines, the malo is blocked to preserve the fruits' intrinsic freshness. Such is the stature of the 2010, I asked Jo if this Le Fief du Breil was the finest wine this renowned site had yet produced? "Peut-être" he replied before ordering a 2006 of the same wine from his son's wine list. This wine was so delicious, daisy-fresh and racy and certainly complemented the snail ravioli I was enjoying! It offered further proof that top shelf Muscadets can mature with the best of them. Without any Pythonesque exaggeration, this 2010 is as magnificent a Muscadet bottling as we have encountered. As expected, from the oldest, low yielding vines of the Estate, it is a Muscadet at its most intense and expressive. Like Guy Bossard's finest, granite-infused bottlings, this is a wine to challenge the preconceptions of the most ardent Muscadet naysayer. Chalk dust and white blossom aromas mingle with iodine and smoky notes while on the palate the crunchiness of the acidity has more citric energy and honeyed, nutty depths than the previous cuvees offered, giving way to stony complexity and a refreshing crackle on the finish. A wonderful wine by any standards - for Muscadet this is the business. Don't serve too cold.
"Again a very fine mineral character here, giving the wine a certain salinity on the nose. Surprisingly there is less patent minerality on the palate than expected, and in comparison to the preceding wine, but it perhaps shows a better balance and a more broad appeal for this character. A supple style, although the acid still comes through. A more challenging almost electrified finish which I like; overall this offers a really good style."
17.5-18.5/20 Points Chris Kissak, www.winedoctor.com