89-91 Points 'Comments: Outstanding' Burghound, Allen Meadows
All of Leroux's Volnay wines in 2009 were 'wow' wines. The 2010s repeat the dose yet have even more aromatic intensity and lift. Like most of village wines that Leroux produces, this Volnay comes with a healthy slug of 1er fruit - here 60% of the fruit comes from the 1er cru Roncerets. And boy does it show. This has such finesse and purity yet it's also fleshy, fruit pure, punchy and just simply delicious. It's why we open bottles of Burgundy. Outrageously pretty and easy to drink, it never sacrifices any of the floral finery, perfume and charm that the best Volnay has to offer. A fabulous Volnay. Do not hesitate.
About the winery
Benjamin Leroux, the gifted manager/winemaker of Domaine Comte Armand launched his own label with the 2007 vintage. He works from a brand new winery in the center of Beaune (just off the Boulevard) that he shares with Dominique Lafon and two other wine growers. The operation is very small and will eventually specialise, primarily, in Puligny and Volnay, but with many other appellations also covered. While there are over twenty terroirs produced, this is certainly a ‘micro negociant’ operation with only two to five barrels made of most of the cuvees. Leroux works with vineyards he manages, vineyards he owns and also buys fruit (never juice or wine) from growers with who he can work closely; growers that produce the quality of fruit to match Leroux’s exacting standards. Half of the vineyards that Leroux works with are currently organic or biodynamic (this percentage is growing) and 100% of the sites are ploughed with no herbicides or pesticides used at all in any of the sites.
What the critics are saying
"You may remember that when I asked Allen Meadows, aka Burghound, on this video who he thought might be a natural heir to the late great Henri Jayer of Burgundy, one of the two people he cited was young Benjamin Leroux of Domaine Comte Armand."
Jancis Robinson, Jan 2009
"Leroux’s passion, ambition and sheer talent have already resulted in a number of stunning, beautiful wines, but my sense is that the best is yet to come.”
Wine Advocate # 194 May 2011