Domaine Bernard Defaix Cote De Lechet 1er Cru Reserve Chablis 2014

"Outstanding. As is typically the case, the wood is a bit more obvious here than in the regular cuvée though it does stop short of dominating the slightly riper nose of citrus blossom and lemon peel. The bigger and richer medium plus weight fla...



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Varietal
Chardonnay
Style
White Wine
Size
750 mL Bottle
Country
FRANCE
Region
Burgundy

Product Description

"Outstanding. As is typically the case, the wood is a bit more obvious here than in the regular cuvée though it does stop short of dominating the slightly riper nose of citrus blossom and lemon peel. The bigger and richer medium plus weight flavors ooze dry extract but not to the point that the focus and detail are lost. In sum, this isn't as racy as the regular cuvée, but it's more powerful and remains well balanced. This is also very, very good."
92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound


This Reserve is culled from a defined parcel of 50-55 year old vines rooted in the mid-slope sweet-spot of the Lechet. The fruit is parcelated into two lots; 60% destined for stainless tank elevage and 40% that is fermented and aged on it's fine lees for a Burgundian 18 months in 228-litre old oak. While the pair share more similarities than differences the two wines remain quite distinct; two manifestations of a singular terroir, each fighting for possession of the soul of Léchet. Saline and with laser-like definition, the former cuvee is, as Mr Meadows implies, the edgy, racier proposition. The Reserve to quote our own notes is the "soul-fruit" cuvee; there's a deeper register of fruit and a pleasingly mellow, limpid texture though not at the expense of freshness or balance. Papaya and yellow pastille replace the tangy citrus and crushed stick of chalk of the wine above. Providing caressing structure and ground meal notes, the wood has already found its place in the mix. It doesn't protrude or compete with the fruit, instead reminds us in the best possible way that Chablis is part of Burgundy and fruit from the finest old-vine sights doesn't wither in front of barrel fermentation or wood elevege. Indeed, in some cases, it positively warrants such treatment.


 

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