Exopto Horizonte de Exopto Blanco 2017

I hope we'll still be mates after saying so, but this wine bears almost no resemblance to Puyaubert's early white Riojas. Where those lavish initial releases looked to Burgundy for their inspiration, today's wine plays homage to the Loire Valley or Germany with its rocky, chalky freshness and citrussy drive. Exopto's white is a blend of mostly Viura with some 10% Garnacha Blanca...


95 points, Tim Atkin MW, Rioja Special Report 2019


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RRP $ 49.00


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Brand Name
Bodegas Exopto
Country
SPAIN
Style
Red Wine
Region
Rioja
Varietal
Tempranillo
Size
750 mL Bottle

Product Description

I hope we'll still be mates after saying so, but this wine bears almost no resemblance to Puyaubert's early white Riojas. Where those lavish initial releases looked to Burgundy for their inspiration, today's wine plays homage to the Loire Valley or Germany with its rocky, chalky freshness and citrussy drive. Exopto's white is a blend of mostly Viura with some 10% Garnacha Blanca and the remaining 5% split between Malvasía Riojana, Jaén Blanca and Torrontés, picked predominantly from vines that are co-planted in Exopto's Tempranillo parcels. From 2017, this wine has been raised in a mixture of concrete egg and 600-litre demi-muid as Puyaubert seeks to capture the mineral salinity and tension that is gifted by the rocky limestone soils and old vines in his highland vineyards in Ábalos. Tim Atkin's comment below nails it--this is an outstanding white by any measure. Guided by citrus-driven va va voom and a lick of reduction, this new-wave white is at once coolly smoky, pithy, amply textured, aromatically complex and thirst-quenching. Do not miss this. 

"Frenchman Tom Puyaubert makes this outstanding white wine from co-fermented Viura, Garnacha Blanc, Malvasía, Jaen, Moscatel and Torrontés, using a combination of larger, older wood and concrete eggs. Leesy, textured and subtly wooded with a hint of skin tannin and an exotic undertone." 95 points, Tim Atkin MW, Rioja Special Report 2019

"For the white, they have added the grapes from one more plot in the village of Ábalos that's planted exclusively with white grapes (the rest are planted with a majority of red and only individual white vines), and production has grown to 6,000 bottles. Produced in a slightly oxidative way, it's mostly Viura and 10% each Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía Riojana, fermented together in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and finished in barriques. The élevage was in used 225-liter barrels (60% of the volume), concrete eggs (25% and used for the first time) and French oak demi-muids (the remaining 15%) and lasted 12 months. The new thing is the addition of the concrete egg, which seems to have added freshness, tension and aromatic complexity. In fact, the wine makes me think of a cool vintage (and it was not), and the wine is fresh and has great acidity. It's a livelier white, this time without malolactic and from grapes harvested earlier, not only because of the fast ripening but also to get additional freshness. A clear step up. 6,000 bottles were filled in September 2018." 93 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate #243

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